There comes a time when one must use the rhubarb in their freezer. This is a sad fact. You see, I adore rhubarb. I adore rhubarb so much that when I gave my uncle a newly-devised Black Tea and Rhubarb Muffin to taste, he said, "again, with the rhubarb?" (By the by, those Black Tea and Rhubarb Muffins are one of the best things I have ever devised, ever. So buy them. They're good.) So maybe I am a bit obsessed. And maybe during rhubarb season I bought all the rhubarb I could find and told my friends that should they see rhubarb they must immediately buy some for me and then went about chopping and stocking my freezer full of rhubarb.Yeah, that happened. But here's the thing, my freezer is small. Very small. Like the size of a shoebox small. (Ok, maybe I'm exaggerating a bit. It's more like the size of the shoebox that your knee-high equestrian boots came in. But still, whenever someone suggests that make all the stocks and "just freeze them" I laugh and laugh. And then I cry.) And lo, mango season is upon us and there must be Mango Muffins (and this, please!) and soon that short, magical period of limes will be here too and my freezer simply will not hold all that bounty and the other various things it must hold. So, much as it pained me to part with a good bit of my precious rhubarb, (leaving, of course enough rhubarb for muffins) the time had come for Rhubarb Snacking Cake.
Snacking cakes seem to be the thing nowadays. Food 52 has a blueberry one, Not Derby Pie has a lovely looking peach one on her site, Sweet Amandine posted a luxurious whole wheat cinnamon one almost a year ago, and for my own forays into the snacking cake party, I went with Smitten Kitchen's rhubarb snacking cake. The thing that makes snacking cakes so alluring is that they are appropriate for almost any occasion. They're not too complex and they're not too sweet. You can have some for breakfast, or dessert or with your mid-afternoon cup of coffee. They are perfect for picnics and dinner parties alike. Personally, I brought the one I made to a picnic where it was greatly loved and well worth the sacrifice of my beloved rhubarb.
Rhubarb Snacking Cake
Adapted so very lightly from Smitten Kitchen
Cake:
1 1/4 pound rhubarb, cut into 1/2 inch chunks (frozen is ok, also)
1 1/3 cup sugar, divided
1 tablespoon lemon juice
1/2 cup butter, softened
1/2 teaspoon lemon zest
2 eggs
1 1/3 cup flour
teaspoon baking powder
3/4 teaspoon table salt
1/4 teaspoon ground ginger
1/3 cup sour cream, or yogurt
Crumb:
1 cup flour
1/4 cup light brown sugar
1/8 teaspoon table salt
1/4 teaspoon cinnamon
4 tablespoons of butter, melted
1. Preheat the oven to 350 F. Stir together the rhubarb, sugar and lemon juice. (If you are using frozen rhubarb, you may want to cook it down a bit before mixing in the sugar and lemon juice so it doesn't soggify your cake) Set aside.
2. Beat the butter, the rest of the sugar and the lemon zest until light and fluffy. Add the eggs, one at a time. In a separate bowl, whisk together the flour, baking powder, salt and ginger. Add 1/3 of the flour mixture to the butter mixture. Mix until incorporated. Then add half of the sour cream/yogurt. Mix. Add the second third of the flour mixture. Mix. Add the second half of the sour/cream yogurt. Mix. Finish off with the last third of the flour mixture.
3. Pour the batter into a greased, parchment papered 9x13 pan. Spread with a spatula. Pour the rhubarb mixture over the cake in one even layer.
4. To make the crumb stir together the flour, brown sugar, salt and cinnamon in a small bowl. Pour in the melted butter and stir until clumpy. Scatter over the cake.
5. Bake the cake for 50-60 minutes until tester comes out dry (of batter, not rhubarb). Cool and then cut into squares and eat.
Thursday, July 26, 2012
Thursday, July 19, 2012
Thursday, July 12, 2012
A good man
Back at the kitchen....Well actually, not back at the kitchen. I haven't worked a shift in the community kitchen for over two months. But I have been back. A few weeks ago, Chef Rami Suissa, who teaches at the Dan Gourmet culinary school, came to the kitchen to give a workshop as he sometimes does . I always enjoy Chef Suissa's workshops, not only because it is a chance for me to hang out with the lovely ladies I worked with, but also because it is a pleasure to learn from the Chef. Simply put, Chef Suissa is a good man. He drives 2 hours down from Haifa and then two hours back just to spend a chunk of time teaching us. He is always patient and always helpful and will explain anything from breaking down a chicken to pricing your food. I am always astounded at how invested he is in helping us succeed. He willing gives out his phone number and has no qualms about taking a call from a woman he has met only once and walking her through the process of making gyoza. (And yes, he's married, jeez, Mom!*)
During the course of the workshop, Chef Suissa pretty much cooks a whole meal. His food is always good, but during this past workshop, one dish in particular stood out for me. The Chef took some fresh white fish fillets (he used Nile perch, I used tilapia), slathered it in a mixture of olive oil, garlic and smoked paprika. Then, before putting it in the oven, he gave it a quick sprinkle with some chopped rosemary and lemon zest. While it was baking, he made a quick sauce of tomatoes cooked down in olive oil and a bit red wine vinegar. When I tasted the fish, the first thing I thought was that I had no idea that smoked paprika and rosemary went so well together. It was flavor pairing I had never thought of before- and yet, now that I have experienced it seems so obvious. The fish was just sort of perfumed with a hint of pine, playing off the bolder smokiness of the paprika. Eating it, I could imagine that flavors like these would make a really nice paella. But back to the fish, it was good. It was really good. And it was a dish I could see making on a weeknight at home. So the next time the urge for fish for dinner hit me, I made it and I wasn't disappointed. It was still good. Now I just gotta work on that paella.
White Fish in the Balkan Style
Adapted from Chef Rami Suissa
Notes: Chef Suissa's recipe serves 10, so scale down (unless, of course, you are serving 10, in which case carry on).
For the fish:
14 fillets of firm, mild white fish (Nile perch, or tilapia will work nicely)
10 cloves of garlic, sliced
3 sprigs of rosemary, chopped
1/4 cup olive oil
1 tablespoon smoked paprika
salt and pepper
zest of a lemon
For the sauce:
5 tomatoes, diced
1/2 cup red wine vinegar
1/4 cup olive oil
1. If you have time, marinate the fish in a mixture of water and lemon (or vinegar) for 15 minutes. Rinse and pat dry. If you don't have time, skip this step.
2. Preheat the oven to 350 f. Lay the fish in one layer on a baking sheet or pan. In a small bowl mix together the garlic, olive oil, salt, pepper and paprika. Spread over the fish. Sprinkle with the rosemary and lemon zest.
3. Bake for 15-25 minutes depending on the thickness of the fillets.
4. While the fish is baking, warm the tomatoes and vinegar in the olive oil, moving them around a bit until they tomatoes get all fall-aparty.
5. Serve with the sauce on top or on the side.
*My mom is actually very good about not bugging me re: my current single status. For this I am grateful. Thanks, Mom!
During the course of the workshop, Chef Suissa pretty much cooks a whole meal. His food is always good, but during this past workshop, one dish in particular stood out for me. The Chef took some fresh white fish fillets (he used Nile perch, I used tilapia), slathered it in a mixture of olive oil, garlic and smoked paprika. Then, before putting it in the oven, he gave it a quick sprinkle with some chopped rosemary and lemon zest. While it was baking, he made a quick sauce of tomatoes cooked down in olive oil and a bit red wine vinegar. When I tasted the fish, the first thing I thought was that I had no idea that smoked paprika and rosemary went so well together. It was flavor pairing I had never thought of before- and yet, now that I have experienced it seems so obvious. The fish was just sort of perfumed with a hint of pine, playing off the bolder smokiness of the paprika. Eating it, I could imagine that flavors like these would make a really nice paella. But back to the fish, it was good. It was really good. And it was a dish I could see making on a weeknight at home. So the next time the urge for fish for dinner hit me, I made it and I wasn't disappointed. It was still good. Now I just gotta work on that paella.
White Fish in the Balkan Style
Adapted from Chef Rami Suissa
Notes: Chef Suissa's recipe serves 10, so scale down (unless, of course, you are serving 10, in which case carry on).
For the fish:
14 fillets of firm, mild white fish (Nile perch, or tilapia will work nicely)
10 cloves of garlic, sliced
3 sprigs of rosemary, chopped
1/4 cup olive oil
1 tablespoon smoked paprika
salt and pepper
zest of a lemon
For the sauce:
5 tomatoes, diced
1/2 cup red wine vinegar
1/4 cup olive oil
1. If you have time, marinate the fish in a mixture of water and lemon (or vinegar) for 15 minutes. Rinse and pat dry. If you don't have time, skip this step.
2. Preheat the oven to 350 f. Lay the fish in one layer on a baking sheet or pan. In a small bowl mix together the garlic, olive oil, salt, pepper and paprika. Spread over the fish. Sprinkle with the rosemary and lemon zest.
3. Bake for 15-25 minutes depending on the thickness of the fillets.
4. While the fish is baking, warm the tomatoes and vinegar in the olive oil, moving them around a bit until they tomatoes get all fall-aparty.
5. Serve with the sauce on top or on the side.
*My mom is actually very good about not bugging me re: my current single status. For this I am grateful. Thanks, Mom!
Thursday, July 5, 2012
My Summer of Tarragon
Despite the fact that I am currently under-employed, this summer has been a busy one. In the past few weeks I have joined friends in celebrating: 3 weddings, a birthday, an engagement, a graduation and the 4th of July. It's been nice, celebrating all these life-events with people I love, especially when my own life seems in flux in so many ways. There is something so grounding about all this happiness. In many ways, I could have been swept away this summer by upheavals in my personal and professional life as well as grief. But I have found that the ability to share in other people's joy has opened me up to the very real experience being joyful. Which is not to say that I am not sad, or anxious, or just plain tired sometimes. I am all those things. But sometimes I am also very happy.
This has also been the summer I have learned to love tarragon. Tarragon, much like it's other anise flavored friend, fennel, was never a favorite of mine. And yet, this summer I seem to be putting it in everything. I've been putting it in chicken salad, in green bean salad and now, in these delightfully summery plum-tarragon popsicles. Tarragon, like happiness and fennel, has crept up on me. Or maybe tarragon is happiness. Who knows? (I still stand firm, though, in my extreme hatred of black licorice and Araq and nothing's going to change that, gosh darn it!)
These popsicles, in any case, are what purple tastes like. They are absolutely regal, but also just a little bit mysterious and adult. Plums are roasted until they collapse upon themselves while tarragon is seeped in simple syrup. Then, after a quick blend, the whole concoction is swirled with yogurt, which gives it a creamy roundness and tang. Once frozen, these guys are near popsicle perfection.They are deep and tart and sweetly intense, with the underlying mellowness of tarragon playing like a bass line under a melody. So eat them slowly. Savor them. The days are long. There's time.
Plum, Yogurt and Tarragon Popsicles
Adapted from The Washington Post who adapted it from "Peoples Pops" by Nathalie Jordi, David Carrell and Joel Horowitz
First, a few notes: 1) The WashPo recipe calls for 2 tablespoons of lemon juice to be added to the plum puree before it is frozen. I found that my plums were tart enough as they were, and didn't need the lemon juice. If your plums tend toward the sweet side add in some of that lemon juice. 2) The recipe called for vanilla yogurt. I used plain and liked it that way. 3)The recipe makes enough plum-goodness for about 8 popsicles. I only have 3, so I froze the rest of it in a tupperware and ate it as frozen yogurt. So if you don't own popsicle molds (and really, you should own popsicle molds) or if you're just plain lazy, that works too.
1.5 lbs plums (about 6-8 large, 10-15 small) halved, but not pitted
14 tablespoons (3/4 cup + 2 tablespoons) simple syrup
2-3 sprigs of tarragon
2 tablespoons lemon juice (optional)
1/2 cup yogurt (plain or vanilla)
1)Preheat the oven to 350 f.
2) Make the syrup. Place a cup of sugar and a cup of water into a saucepan. Bring to a boil and then lower the heat and simmer about 5-6 minutes until the sugar has dissolved and the mixture is slightly syrupy.
3) Arrange the plums, cut side down, on a baking sheet. Leave the pits in. Roast 20-40 minutes until they have softened and kind of collapsed.
4) While the plums are roasting, add the tarragon to the saucepan of simple syrup. Cover and bring to a lazy simmer. Cook for 5-6 minutes and then turn off the flame. Let the tarragon seep while the plums are roasting.
5) Once the plums have cooled off enough to handle, remove the pits and transfer them to a food processor and give em a whirl (alternatively, you can do as I did, and transfer them to a 2 cup measuring cup and use a hand blender). You don't need to get the puree perfectly smooth. A few chucks won't hurt anything. You'll need about 1 2/3 cup puree. If you have more than that save the extra for another use (like your morning yogurt).
6) Remove the tarragon from the syrup and discard. Measure out 3/4 cup + 2 tablespoons of syrup. Add the syrup and the lemon juice (if using) to the plum puree.
7) Pour the mixture into popsicle molds. Freeze 4-5 hours or until set. Unmold. Eat.
And now, some practical matters. I am now on Twitter, where I can be found @rogueskitchen. So, feel free to follow me and say hi. I tweet about all sorts of things, not only food. Also, I will soon start blogging for the Times of Israel, I'll mostly be writing about food and other sundry things. So you can come visit me there, if you'd like, and say hi again.
Wednesday, June 27, 2012
Little Scraps of Paper
Suddenly I am unemployed. It's my own fault for not starting my job the second I realized that the end of my big editing project would coincide with the end of the school year, and hence summer break for the kid's magazine I write for. I was so caught up in finishing the bloody project, that I did nothing but finish the bloody project for weeks. And then, all of a sudden, it was over, and for the past two and a half weeks I have been waking up every morning and thinking, what do I do today?
So what do I do? Mostly, I look through job-listings, write cover letters and play Tetris with my resume (why yes, I can write for your economics think tank). I've also made myself a list of useful tasks- you know, all those little errands and housey things that you've been meaning to get to for years but somehow something more important always comes up. So, in the past two weeks I have: bought a cast iron pan, signed up for the gym/pool, organized my room and finally, finally, dealt with my big mess of recipes.
For years now I have had a purple folder where I keep all the newspaper clippings and little scraps of paper that is my recipe collection. It is, to put it lightly, a mess. Nothing is in it's it place. When you open it up papers flood out into your lap. I can never find anything I need. The time had come to get it in order. So, one by one, I have been transferring the recipes onto my computer. I have found recipes I had long forgotten, and recipes I now know by heart. I found recipes written in my mother's neat cursive and recipes that I jotted down on the back of envelopes. It's been a nice reminder that there is something in sharing recipes that is like storytelling, or history. Each little scrap of paper is an artifact.
In going through my recipes I came across this green bean salad. Because it is written on a small scrap of paper, I actually have no idea where it is originally from. I had a vague recollection of making it years ago, and liking it. I decided it was time to take it off the shelf, dust it off and see how it ran. I was not disappointed. It is sweetly grassy with dill, parsley and tarragon, and is sharpened with a hit of mustard. At the end, a double finish of red wine and lemon juice give it acid and brightness. In other words, it runs like Secretariat. Not bad for a scrap of paper.
Green Bean Salad
The original recipe called for 1/3 pound of gruyere and 1/2 cup of olives. I felt that they muddied the salad a bit too much, so I left them out. Feel free to reinstate them if you so desire.
1 ½ lb green beans
2 cloves garlic, minced
¼ cup olive oil
1 tsp tarragon
1 tbl dill
½ tsp salt
2 tsp Dijon mustard
½ cup parsley
1 small yellow pepper, julienned
1 small red pepper, julienned
3-4 tbl lemon juice
1 tbl red wine vinegar
½ cup toasted almonds
1 Steam the green beans in a vegetable steamer until they are bright green and tender, but still have some bite.
2. While the beans are steaming combine the garlic through the lemon juice. Add the green beans and allow to sit at room temperature for 2 hours.
3. 15 minutes before serving, add the lemon juice, red wine vinegar and almonds. Taste, adjust seasonings and serve.
Wednesday, June 20, 2012
The Chicken Salad Song
I have a friend who loves chicken livers. She loves them so much that she composed a little ditty about them. It goes- chicken, chicken livers, chicken livers-and so on. Now, I can't say that I am equally enamored of chicken livers. In fact, I kind of hate them. (And believe you me, I have tried to love them. Oh, how I've tried). However, I do love chicken salad. Or rather, this chicken salad. Sometimes I even find myself singing-chicken, chicken salad, chicken salad.
Now, this chicken salad isn't going to change the way you look at chicken salad. It doesn't reinvent the chicken breast. No, this chicken salad is so classic as to be perfect. It stars chicken breast, gently poached, celery, red onion and mayo. Those ingredients are then punctuated with lemon zest and tarragon. It's perfect for summer. And indeed, I have been making it every summer for years now. It's great as a main dish, and it's great in a sandwich. It's great all around. So without further ado, chicken salad. You may now burst into song.
Lemon-Tarragon Chicken Salad
Adapted from Bon Apettit, August 2001, via Epicurious
1 1/4 pounds skinless boneless chicken breast halves (about 3)
3/4 cup finely chopped celery
1/2 cup mayonnaise
1/4 cup finely chopped red onion
2 tablespoons chopped fresh tarragon, plus a handful for the poaching liquid
2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice
1 teaspoon grated lemon peel
1. Bring large saucepan of salted water (or chicken broth, if you so desire) to boil. Add a handful of tarragon sprigs and chicken breasts; reduce heat to medium-low, cover and simmer until chicken is just cooked through, about 12 minutes. Transfer chicken to plate; cool.
2. Mix celery, 1/2 cup mayonnaise, onion, tarragon, lemon juice, and lemon peel in large bowl to blend. Cut chicken into 1/2-inch cubes; stir into mayonnaise mixture. Season with salt and pepper. (Can be made 4 hours ahead. Cover; chill.)
Thursday, June 14, 2012
Elegy
"Thou wert the morning star among the living,
Ere thy fair light had fled"
-Plato "Epigram on Aster" as translated by Shelley in the opening to "Adonais", his lament for Keats.
"Even if we're not in South Bend, I love you all"
She was our bright star. She was the A+ student; the lead actress; the beauty.
At first we were perplexed as to why she wanted to join our group of 4, soon to be 5. We weren't the bad girls, God no, but we weren't the good girls either. We were too idiosyncratic. And she was very definitely a good girl. But she had her own idiosyncrasies. We soon came to know that.
Here is a memory: It is our first ever weekend away in South Bend. We are stuffed inside her father's car-all five of us-on our way to her house from the one runway airport/train-station. The driver in front of us squeals to a stop, and her father, a doctor of philosophy, sticks his head out the open window and yells at the top of his lungs: "I"ll tell my mother on you, you Communist monkey." That is the type of house she grew up in. That is the house we grew to love.
For us, South Bend was a place out of time. Nobody told us it was a college town. Nobody told us it was a steel town. It was none of these things to us. To us, five teen-aged girls, it was where we were full of freedom. There we flaunted our whispered secrets and codes. There we flirted with boys and held midnight rendezvous on the dark, quiet, small-town streets. We were perhaps the most cautious group of 16 year old girls you could imagine, but we didn't know that. We were a train ride away from our homes, stripped of our girls' school uniforms, electric and so, so alive.
She didn't lead our pack, despite the fact that she led in every other aspect of her life. And maybe that's why she like being with us- maybe we were the one place she could leave her self-ambition behind; where she could relax into her true self- smart, slightly neurotic and sometimes quirky. With us she could be the type of girl who, when we, despite her protests, stood up on our chairs in the middle of a crowded restaurant, put our hands up in the air and yell, "moo!", would maybe, maybe just crack a smile. And we, in turn, loved that we could make her smile.
Here is another memory: She and I are sitting on the floor of her small kitchen in Baltimore, surrounded by hazelnuts when her husband walks in. She is holding a hammer, and I am picking hazelnut meat from among the shards of shell scattered on the linoleum. We had decided, burgeoning foodies that we were, to make hazelnut biscotti, but all she has in the house were un-shelled nuts and no nut-cracker. So, we grab the hammer and go to work. It takes us about half the night to make those biscotti, certainly much longer than the recipe's allotted forty five minutes. At no point do we turn to each other and say, let's give this up. Instead, we laugh, because life is absurd. And that is how her husband finds us, on the floor laughing at our own stupid bullheadedness.
We decorated her chuppah. That I was reminded of. And I remember it. I remember that it was a pragmatic choice- she couldn't find a florist to do it, so we, her friends, were left to it. But even so, I remember thinking at the time that it was the most romantic thing in the world, to be married overlooking the water, underneath a canopy that her closest friends had strewn with flowers. The whole structure was almost upended into the river by a gust of wind in the middle of the ceremony. That was less romantic.
But I don't remember when that trip was, the trip with the biscotti. I can't remember if it was before her time in the hospital at the University of Chicago, when I raced to her room in between classes and entertained her new husband while she slept by showing him the best gargoyles on campus, or was it after that? Was it winter break? Spring break? Thanksgiving? First year? Second year? I don't know. I can't place it. I still have a photograph from that trip,though. It's a good photograph. We are the two of us standing under a dour sky at the Baltimore harbor. I am in my long wool coat, wearing a hat and scarf that don't quite match. She is stylish in her beret and short coat. Both of us are smiling and hopeful, our arms around each others' shoulders. Behind us, staidly powerful, is the USS Constellation. The photograph freezes the three of us- she and me and that old warship-in a moment; that very moment when we are waiting to set sail.
Another one: We are sitting in vegetarian restaurant in Jerusalem, talking. She is talking about how difficult it is for her being childless in a community full of children. I commiserate with her telling her how difficult it is to go back home; to be single in my late 20's in a community full of married people. In this way we are somewhat the same- we are anomalies. And it is not really the cruelty that bothers us. People are not cruel. It is simply that both of us cannot stand to be pitied. It is much worse for her, though. I go back only once or twice a year. She lives with it every day.
She doesn't talk about the physical pain anymore. When I was in college and we were speaking on a regular basis, she used to. She used to tell me about the treatments, and doctors and trips the emergency room. But then I moved away and we fell out of touch for a few years. When we meet up again for the first time in a long while, she doesn't mention anything. So I don't mention anything. But I know it is still there. I can tell by the small pauses in our conversations; by the slightness of her wrists that have become as twig-like as my own. Beneath her chipper- and she is always chipper when I see her- her eyes are resigned. She has her work, though. And she honestly loves it. She truly sees it as her life's work to bring Jewish students closer to Judaism. In this I disagree with her. But I never doubt her commitment to and love for the young women she mentors. And she, as far as I know, never respects me any less for my disagreement. It makes me feel oddly adult, sitting with her; being in this relationship of mutual respect and care, despite our very different lives. I like it when she visits.
The last time I see her, I take her Mouseline. I take everyone to Mouseline. It has the best ice cream in Israel; maybe even the world. We only have about 20 minutes or so to talk until she is called off to deal with a sick student. We manage to touch briefly on each others' lives- on my disillusionment with academia, and my culinary hopes; on her ventures in public speaking and the possibility that she will move. I think I say to her, as she is leaving, "next time we'll have more time", but I can't remember. I can't remember what I said to her last.
And now she is gone. She slipped away in one moment, far, far away to where she is truly unreachable.
It incomprehensible, this. My sister, picking up that same photo from my trip says, "she was so beautiful." The use of past tense is jarring, wrong. No, no. She is still with us. At her funeral, where I am present via Skype, my only coherent thought is: here we are the five of us, together again after all these years. I see that plain, pine box. It's not our way, but it could use some flowers. She is still with us.
What I wanted for her always, was happiness; for life to show her some small measure of kindness. I kept on waiting for her to turn that corner. I believed she would turn that corner. I hope she knew that.
Here is one last memory: It is the day before her wedding. We are gathered in parent's house in South Bend, as we have gathered so many times before. Her mother sets a pineapple upside-down cake on to the table. It's her favorite. Personally, I never did like the cake, but I eat it anyway. So when I am first introduced to tarte Tatin, it is her I think of. It's the same concept, really- the deep amber caramel spilling over the sides of the cake; the fruit, drowning into the valleys and slopes of it. Tarte Tatin too, is an upside-down cake.
Ere thy fair light had fled"
-Plato "Epigram on Aster" as translated by Shelley in the opening to "Adonais", his lament for Keats.
"Even if we're not in South Bend, I love you all"
She was our bright star. She was the A+ student; the lead actress; the beauty.
At first we were perplexed as to why she wanted to join our group of 4, soon to be 5. We weren't the bad girls, God no, but we weren't the good girls either. We were too idiosyncratic. And she was very definitely a good girl. But she had her own idiosyncrasies. We soon came to know that.
Here is a memory: It is our first ever weekend away in South Bend. We are stuffed inside her father's car-all five of us-on our way to her house from the one runway airport/train-station. The driver in front of us squeals to a stop, and her father, a doctor of philosophy, sticks his head out the open window and yells at the top of his lungs: "I"ll tell my mother on you, you Communist monkey." That is the type of house she grew up in. That is the house we grew to love.
For us, South Bend was a place out of time. Nobody told us it was a college town. Nobody told us it was a steel town. It was none of these things to us. To us, five teen-aged girls, it was where we were full of freedom. There we flaunted our whispered secrets and codes. There we flirted with boys and held midnight rendezvous on the dark, quiet, small-town streets. We were perhaps the most cautious group of 16 year old girls you could imagine, but we didn't know that. We were a train ride away from our homes, stripped of our girls' school uniforms, electric and so, so alive.
She didn't lead our pack, despite the fact that she led in every other aspect of her life. And maybe that's why she like being with us- maybe we were the one place she could leave her self-ambition behind; where she could relax into her true self- smart, slightly neurotic and sometimes quirky. With us she could be the type of girl who, when we, despite her protests, stood up on our chairs in the middle of a crowded restaurant, put our hands up in the air and yell, "moo!", would maybe, maybe just crack a smile. And we, in turn, loved that we could make her smile.
Here is another memory: She and I are sitting on the floor of her small kitchen in Baltimore, surrounded by hazelnuts when her husband walks in. She is holding a hammer, and I am picking hazelnut meat from among the shards of shell scattered on the linoleum. We had decided, burgeoning foodies that we were, to make hazelnut biscotti, but all she has in the house were un-shelled nuts and no nut-cracker. So, we grab the hammer and go to work. It takes us about half the night to make those biscotti, certainly much longer than the recipe's allotted forty five minutes. At no point do we turn to each other and say, let's give this up. Instead, we laugh, because life is absurd. And that is how her husband finds us, on the floor laughing at our own stupid bullheadedness.
We decorated her chuppah. That I was reminded of. And I remember it. I remember that it was a pragmatic choice- she couldn't find a florist to do it, so we, her friends, were left to it. But even so, I remember thinking at the time that it was the most romantic thing in the world, to be married overlooking the water, underneath a canopy that her closest friends had strewn with flowers. The whole structure was almost upended into the river by a gust of wind in the middle of the ceremony. That was less romantic.
But I don't remember when that trip was, the trip with the biscotti. I can't remember if it was before her time in the hospital at the University of Chicago, when I raced to her room in between classes and entertained her new husband while she slept by showing him the best gargoyles on campus, or was it after that? Was it winter break? Spring break? Thanksgiving? First year? Second year? I don't know. I can't place it. I still have a photograph from that trip,though. It's a good photograph. We are the two of us standing under a dour sky at the Baltimore harbor. I am in my long wool coat, wearing a hat and scarf that don't quite match. She is stylish in her beret and short coat. Both of us are smiling and hopeful, our arms around each others' shoulders. Behind us, staidly powerful, is the USS Constellation. The photograph freezes the three of us- she and me and that old warship-in a moment; that very moment when we are waiting to set sail.
Another one: We are sitting in vegetarian restaurant in Jerusalem, talking. She is talking about how difficult it is for her being childless in a community full of children. I commiserate with her telling her how difficult it is to go back home; to be single in my late 20's in a community full of married people. In this way we are somewhat the same- we are anomalies. And it is not really the cruelty that bothers us. People are not cruel. It is simply that both of us cannot stand to be pitied. It is much worse for her, though. I go back only once or twice a year. She lives with it every day.
She doesn't talk about the physical pain anymore. When I was in college and we were speaking on a regular basis, she used to. She used to tell me about the treatments, and doctors and trips the emergency room. But then I moved away and we fell out of touch for a few years. When we meet up again for the first time in a long while, she doesn't mention anything. So I don't mention anything. But I know it is still there. I can tell by the small pauses in our conversations; by the slightness of her wrists that have become as twig-like as my own. Beneath her chipper- and she is always chipper when I see her- her eyes are resigned. She has her work, though. And she honestly loves it. She truly sees it as her life's work to bring Jewish students closer to Judaism. In this I disagree with her. But I never doubt her commitment to and love for the young women she mentors. And she, as far as I know, never respects me any less for my disagreement. It makes me feel oddly adult, sitting with her; being in this relationship of mutual respect and care, despite our very different lives. I like it when she visits.
The last time I see her, I take her Mouseline. I take everyone to Mouseline. It has the best ice cream in Israel; maybe even the world. We only have about 20 minutes or so to talk until she is called off to deal with a sick student. We manage to touch briefly on each others' lives- on my disillusionment with academia, and my culinary hopes; on her ventures in public speaking and the possibility that she will move. I think I say to her, as she is leaving, "next time we'll have more time", but I can't remember. I can't remember what I said to her last.
And now she is gone. She slipped away in one moment, far, far away to where she is truly unreachable.
It incomprehensible, this. My sister, picking up that same photo from my trip says, "she was so beautiful." The use of past tense is jarring, wrong. No, no. She is still with us. At her funeral, where I am present via Skype, my only coherent thought is: here we are the five of us, together again after all these years. I see that plain, pine box. It's not our way, but it could use some flowers. She is still with us.
What I wanted for her always, was happiness; for life to show her some small measure of kindness. I kept on waiting for her to turn that corner. I believed she would turn that corner. I hope she knew that.
Here is one last memory: It is the day before her wedding. We are gathered in parent's house in South Bend, as we have gathered so many times before. Her mother sets a pineapple upside-down cake on to the table. It's her favorite. Personally, I never did like the cake, but I eat it anyway. So when I am first introduced to tarte Tatin, it is her I think of. It's the same concept, really- the deep amber caramel spilling over the sides of the cake; the fruit, drowning into the valleys and slopes of it. Tarte Tatin too, is an upside-down cake.
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