Wednesday, June 27, 2012

Little Scraps of Paper


Suddenly I am unemployed. It's my own fault for not starting my job the second I realized that the end of my big editing project would coincide with the end of the school year, and hence summer break for the kid's magazine I write for. I was so caught up in finishing the bloody project, that I did nothing but finish the bloody project for weeks. And then, all of a sudden, it was over, and for the past two and a half weeks I have been waking up every morning and thinking, what do I do today?
So what do I do? Mostly, I look through job-listings, write cover letters and play Tetris with my resume (why yes, I can write for your economics think tank). I've also made myself a list of useful tasks- you know, all those little errands and housey things that you've been meaning to get to for years but somehow something more important always comes up. So, in the past two weeks I have: bought a cast iron pan, signed up for the gym/pool, organized my room and finally, finally, dealt with my big mess of recipes.
For years now I have had a purple folder where I keep all the newspaper clippings and little scraps of paper that is my recipe collection. It is, to put it lightly, a mess. Nothing is in it's it place. When you open it up papers flood out into your lap. I can never find anything I need. The time had come to get it in order. So, one by one, I have been transferring the recipes onto my computer. I have found recipes I had long forgotten, and recipes I now know by heart. I found recipes written in my mother's neat cursive and recipes that I jotted down on the back of envelopes. It's been a nice reminder that there is something in sharing recipes that is like storytelling, or history. Each little scrap of paper is an artifact.
In going through my recipes I came across this green bean salad. Because it is written on a small scrap of paper, I actually have no idea where it is originally from.  I had a vague recollection of making it years ago, and liking it. I decided it was time to take it off the shelf, dust it off and see how it ran. I was not disappointed. It is sweetly grassy with dill, parsley and tarragon, and is sharpened with a hit of mustard. At the end, a double finish of red wine and lemon juice give it acid and brightness. In other words, it runs like Secretariat. Not bad for a scrap of paper.

Green Bean Salad
The original recipe called for 1/3 pound of gruyere and 1/2 cup of olives. I felt that they muddied the salad a bit too much, so I left them out. Feel free to reinstate them if you so desire.


1 ½ lb green beans
2 cloves garlic, minced
¼ cup olive oil
1 tsp tarragon
1 tbl dill
½ tsp salt
2 tsp Dijon mustard
½ cup parsley
1 small yellow pepper, julienned
1 small red pepper, julienned
3-4 tbl lemon juice
1 tbl red wine vinegar
½ cup toasted almonds

1 Steam the green beans in a vegetable steamer until they are bright green and tender, but still have some bite. 

2. While the beans are steaming combine the garlic through the lemon juice.  Add the green beans and allow to sit at room temperature for 2 hours. 

3. 15 minutes before serving, add the lemon juice, red wine vinegar and almonds. Taste, adjust seasonings and serve.

Wednesday, June 20, 2012

The Chicken Salad Song


I have a friend who loves chicken livers. She loves them so much that she composed a little ditty about them. It goes- chicken, chicken livers, chicken livers-and so on. Now, I can't say that I am equally enamored of chicken livers. In fact, I kind of hate them. (And believe you me, I have tried to love them. Oh, how I've tried). However, I do love chicken salad. Or rather, this chicken salad. Sometimes I even find myself singing-chicken, chicken salad, chicken salad.

Now, this chicken salad isn't going to change the way you look at chicken salad. It doesn't reinvent the chicken breast. No, this chicken salad is so classic as to be perfect. It stars chicken breast, gently poached, celery, red onion and mayo. Those ingredients are then punctuated with lemon zest and tarragon. It's perfect for summer. And indeed, I have been making it every summer for years now.  It's great as a main dish, and it's great in a sandwich. It's great all around. So without further ado, chicken salad. You may now burst into song.


Lemon-Tarragon Chicken Salad
Adapted from Bon Apettit, August 2001, via Epicurious

1 1/4 pounds skinless boneless chicken breast halves (about 3)

3/4 cup finely chopped celery

1/2 cup mayonnaise

1/4 cup finely chopped red onion

2 tablespoons chopped fresh tarragon
, plus a handful for the poaching liquid
2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice

1 teaspoon grated lemon peel


1. Bring large saucepan of salted water (or chicken broth, if you so desire) to boil. Add a handful of tarragon sprigs and chicken breasts; reduce heat to medium-low, cover and simmer until chicken is just cooked through, about 12 minutes. Transfer chicken to plate; cool.

2. Mix celery, 1/2 cup mayonnaise, onion, tarragon, lemon juice, and lemon peel in large bowl to blend. Cut chicken into 1/2-inch cubes; stir into mayonnaise mixture. Season with salt and pepper. (Can be made 4 hours ahead. Cover; chill.)

Thursday, June 14, 2012

Elegy

"Thou wert the morning star among the living,
Ere thy fair light had fled"
-Plato "Epigram on Aster" as translated by Shelley in the opening to "Adonais", his lament for Keats.

"Even if we're not in South Bend, I love you all"


She was our bright star. She was the A+ student; the lead actress; the beauty. 
At first we were perplexed as to why she wanted to join our group of 4, soon to be 5. We weren't the bad girls, God no, but we weren't the good girls either. We were too idiosyncratic. And she was very definitely a good girl. But she had her own idiosyncrasies. We soon came to know that.

Here is a memory: It is our first ever weekend away in South Bend. We are stuffed inside her father's car-all five of us-on our way to her house from the one runway airport/train-station. The driver in front of us squeals to a stop, and her father, a doctor of philosophy, sticks his head out the open window and yells at the top of his lungs: "I"ll tell my mother on you, you Communist monkey." That is the type of house she grew up in. That is the house we grew to love. 

For us, South Bend was a place out of time. Nobody told us it was a college town. Nobody told us it was a steel town. It was none of these things to us. To us, five teen-aged girls, it was where we were full of freedom. There we flaunted our whispered secrets and codes. There we flirted with boys and held midnight rendezvous on the dark, quiet, small-town streets. We were perhaps the most cautious group of 16 year old girls you could imagine, but we didn't know that. We were a train ride away from our homes, stripped of our girls' school uniforms, electric and so, so alive.

She didn't lead our pack, despite the fact that she led in every other aspect of her life. And maybe that's why she like being with us- maybe we were the one place she could leave her self-ambition behind; where she could relax into her true self- smart, slightly neurotic and sometimes quirky. With us she could be the type of girl who, when we, despite her protests, stood up on our chairs in the middle of a crowded restaurant, put our hands up in the air and yell, "moo!", would maybe, maybe just crack a smile. And we, in turn, loved that we could make her smile.

Here is another memory: She and I are sitting on the floor of her small kitchen in Baltimore, surrounded by hazelnuts when her husband walks in. She is holding a hammer, and I am picking hazelnut meat from among the shards of shell scattered on the linoleum. We had decided, burgeoning foodies that we were, to make hazelnut biscotti, but all she has in the house were un-shelled nuts and no nut-cracker. So, we grab the hammer and go to work. It takes us about half the night to make those biscotti, certainly much longer than the recipe's allotted forty five minutes. At no point do we turn to each other and say, let's give this up. Instead, we laugh, because life is absurd. And that is how her husband finds us, on the floor laughing at our own stupid bullheadedness.

We decorated her chuppah. That I was reminded of. And I remember it. I remember that it was a pragmatic choice- she couldn't find a florist to do it, so we, her friends, were left to it. But even so, I remember thinking at the time that it was the most romantic thing in the world, to be married overlooking the water, underneath a canopy that her closest friends had strewn with flowers. The whole structure was almost upended into the river by a gust of wind in the middle of the ceremony. That was less romantic.


But I don't remember when that trip was, the trip with the biscotti. I can't remember if it was before her time in the hospital at the University of Chicago, when I raced to her room in between classes and entertained her new husband while she slept by showing him the best gargoyles on campus, or was it after that? Was it winter break? Spring break? Thanksgiving? First year? Second year? I don't know. I can't place it. I still have a photograph from that trip,though. It's a good photograph. We are the two of us standing under a dour sky at the Baltimore harbor. I am in my long wool coat, wearing a hat and scarf that don't quite match. She is stylish in her beret and short coat. Both of us are smiling and hopeful, our arms around each others' shoulders. Behind us, staidly powerful, is the USS Constellation. The photograph freezes the three of us- she and me and that old warship-in a moment; that very moment when we are waiting to set sail.

Another one: We are sitting in vegetarian restaurant in Jerusalem, talking. She is talking about how difficult it is for her being childless in a community full of children. I commiserate with her telling her how difficult it is to go back home; to be single in my late 20's in a community full of married people. In this way we are somewhat the same- we are anomalies.  And it is not really the cruelty that bothers us. People are not cruel. It is simply that both of us cannot stand to be pitied. It is much worse for her, though. I go back only once or twice a year. She lives with it every day. 

She doesn't talk about the physical pain anymore. When I was in college and we were speaking on a regular basis, she used to. She used to tell me about  the treatments, and doctors and trips the emergency room. But then I moved away and we fell out of touch for a few years. When we meet up again for the first time in a long while, she doesn't mention anything. So I don't mention anything. But I know it is still there. I can tell by the small pauses in our conversations; by the slightness of her wrists that have become as twig-like as my own. Beneath her chipper- and she is always chipper when I see her- her eyes are resigned. She has her work, though. And she honestly loves it. She truly sees it as her life's work to bring Jewish students closer to Judaism. In this I disagree with her. But I never doubt her commitment to and love for the young women she mentors. And she, as far as I know, never respects me any less for my disagreement. It makes me feel oddly adult, sitting with her; being in this relationship of mutual respect and care, despite our very different lives. I like it when she visits.

The last time I see her, I take her Mouseline. I take everyone to Mouseline. It has the best ice cream in Israel; maybe even the world. We only have about 20 minutes or so to talk until she is called off to deal with a sick student. We manage to touch briefly on each others' lives- on my disillusionment with academia, and my culinary hopes; on her ventures in public speaking and the possibility that she will move. I think I say to her, as she is leaving, "next time we'll have more time", but I can't remember. I can't remember what I said to her last.

And now she is gone. She slipped away in one moment, far, far away to where she is truly unreachable.

It incomprehensible, this. My sister, picking up that same photo from my trip says, "she was so beautiful." The use of past tense is jarring, wrong. No, no. She is still with us. At her funeral, where I am present via Skype, my only coherent thought is: here we are the five of us, together again after all these years. I see that plain, pine box. It's not our way, but it could use some flowers. She is still with us.

What I wanted for her always, was happiness; for life to show her some small measure of kindness. I kept on waiting for her to turn that corner. I believed she would turn that corner. I hope she knew that.

Here is one last memory: It is the day before her wedding. We are gathered in parent's house in South Bend, as we have gathered so many times before. Her mother sets a pineapple upside-down cake on to the table. It's her favorite. Personally, I never did like the cake, but I eat it anyway. So when I am first introduced to tarte Tatin, it is her I think of. It's the same concept, really- the deep amber caramel spilling over the sides of the cake; the fruit, drowning into the valleys and slopes of it. Tarte Tatin too, is an upside-down cake.

Monday, May 28, 2012

Better in Hungarian


I made Turosgomboc yesterday. I had some homemade ricotta cheese that needed to get used before it went  bad and pot of just-boiling water on the stove and so I thought- I will make turosgomboc, even though I have never made them before.
Turosgomoc (pronounced turosh gumbo) are sweet Hungarian cheese dumplings. I got the recipe from my grandmother this past April. I don't know how we got on the subject of Hungarian cheese dumplings, but once it was broached my grandmother was determined to find her recipe for Turosgomboc. She sifted through her file box filled to the brim with yellowing newspaper clippings and little slips of paper decorated in her neat, shorthand cursive. She found her recipe for cocos and nokelach (spaetzle), but not for turosgomboc. So she gave it to me from memory.
It is for this reason that faced with a indeterminate amount of cheese (a  half a pound? a third of a pound? I don't know), I didn't feel so bad winging the recipe. I just sort guesstimated and hoped for the best. And indeed the best won out. Plop went the white batter off the spoon and into the water, sinking down only to rise lazily and swell into a pillowy ball. Once drained, they deflated a bit, becoming not dense, but smooth and creamy. My grandmother said that she used to reheat the dumplings by giving them a toss in a frying pan with some buttered breadcrumbs. Tommy, my friend from Hungary, said that in Hungary they eat them with jam. (Having tasted him mother's apricot jam, I am of the opinion that everything in Hungary should be eaten with jam.) I ate them unadorned. With cherries and olive oil gelato. And they were wonderful and slightly sweet and smooth and cool- everything you might want in a cheese dumpling

I am giving you two recipes for turosgomboc. Neither are precise. The first, which is the version I got from my grandmother, calls for a pound of farmer's cheese. I had fresh ricotta, not farmer's cheese, and I definitely didn't have a pound of it, so I just tried to adjust and tweak the recipe accordingly. It worked just fine.

My grandmother's Turosgomboc
1 pound farmer's cheese
2-3 eggs
Sugar (to taste)
1 scant cup of flour (or enough to hold the dough together)
Breadcrumbs
Butter


1. Put a pot of water up to boil.  Mix together the ingredients until the dough just holds together. Form into walnut-sized balls.

2. Drop the batter into the boiling water, taking care not to crowd them (you may need to cook the dumplings in batches)  The balls will sink to the bottom of the pot and then swell and rise to the top. Cook 3-5 minutes until the dumplings have set. 

3. Remove with a slotted spoon and let drain on a paper towel-lined plate.

4. Melt some butter in a wide skillet. Add the breadcrumbs. They will turn a beautiful, dark brown and smell delicious. Toss the dumplings into the pan and move them around until they are coated in breadcrumbs and warmed through. Serve with or without jam.


My Turosgomboc

1/2-1/3 pound fresh ricotta, strained
1 egg
Sugar (to taste)
4-5 tablespoons flour
a drop of almond extract.

1. Put a pot of water up to boil. Mix together ingredients until the batter just holds together. It will be sticky. If it is too sticky to work with, let it firm up in the refrigerator for a half an hour or so.

2. Using a spoon drop walnut sized amounts of batter into the pot of boiling water. The uneven blobs will sink to the bottom of the pot and then swell and rise to the top. Cook 3-5 minutes until the dumplings have set.

3. Remove with a slotted spoon and let drain on a paper towel-lined plate.

4. Eat with or without jam, with cherries and olive oil gelato.

Saturday, May 19, 2012

The trials and tribulations of cheesecake


I am a cheesecake purist. I want my cheesecake to be nade cream cheese, eggs, sugar, vanilla and maybe a little bit of lemon zest- nothing more and nothing less. I don't believe in cream or soft white cheese or gelatin or, heaven fore-fend, pudding mix. My cheese cake shouldn't taste of chocolate or caramel or passion-fruit. It should be dense. It should be creamy. It should taste pure, with a bit of tang. It should require a cup of coffee- because there is nothing better in this world than a slice of cheesecake and a cup of coffee. On this we can all agree.
Loving cheesecake as I do makes living in Israel difficult sometimes. Israelis like their cheesecake to taste like air. They are enamored of no-bake cheese cakes and light and fluffy things made with everything but cream cheese. These things are abominations. And here's the worst of it, even if say, you wanted to make a proper cheesecake all of your own it nigh near impossible. Israeli cream cheese, just isn't...right. It's not dense and it has too much tang and not enough smoothness. It is not proper cheesecake making material and is only marginally acceptable when eaten on a bagel (with or without lox-your call). Good old American cream cheese (of the Philadelphia variety) can be found, but it is prohibitively expensive. 8 ounces of the stuff runs about 20.00 shekel (about 5 dollars). That's at least 40 shekels worth of cream cheese per cheesecake.
My cheesecake-less situation has been a sore subject for all the years I have live here. But, last  year I began to hear rumors that one could make their own cream cheese with nothing but a cheesecloth and some time. I was intrigued and this year I decided to give it a try. The various Israeli blogs and resources that I looked at recommended straining שמנת חמוצה- what passes for sour cream-overnight. I had nothing to lose.  A small 200 gram carton of sour cream costs 2 shekels. Worse comes to worse, I would be down a couple of bucks. So, feeling very cool and DIY-y, I dumped my sour cream into a clean cotton towel (since cheesecloth also doesn't really happen around here) tied it up and hung it from shelf to strain overnight. When I opened my nifty white bundle in the morning I was delighted to find that what I had created did indeed have the texture of cream cheese. But when I tasted it my face fell. It tasted like Israeli sour cream, just denser, which I suppose is to be expected when you strain Israeli sour cream. But, having nothing else to do with the cheese, I made it into a cheesecake anyway, using the recipe for the classic cheesecake that I make for my family every Passover. And.... it was ok, I guess. It didn't taste horrible, but it wasn't the cheesecake I know and love. It was light and slightly watery even and strangely enough, given the acidity of Israeli sour cream, it was too sweet. Plus, it was damn ugly. It puffed up in the oven like a great cheese puff, but when I turned the oven off, it fell mightly and unevenly, giving it a wrinkled look-kinda like a topographical map. I talked it over with a friend of mine, who said that her mother-in-law successfully makes her "American" cheesecakes using her own cream cheese that she makes from strained soft white cheese, which sounds like it could work. But at this point, I have neither the time, nor patience to play with cheese again. Shavuot is almost upon us and there is much to do. (Like, you know, finish this big massive copy-edit of a 600 page book by the end of the month).
 So, I leave it to you, oh intrepid readers, to take the following cheesecake recipe and run with it. If you are in America, use it. It's as simple as anything and it's one of the best damn cheesecakes I know. If you are in Israel, you have a few choices 1) weep and resign yourself to sub-par cheesecake 2) splurge on really expensive cream cheese 3) discover the secret to making your own cream cheese and then REPORT BACK TO ME IMMEDIATELY. Happy cheesecake making.

Our Family Cheesecake
(Source unknown. Possibly Ella)


For the crust:
 1/4 stick butter (2 oz, 55 grams)
 2.5 ounces (about 70 grams) graham crackers, or tea biscuits,crushed
 1/4 cup sugar
 1/2 teaspoon cinnamon
 
For the filling
 2 8oz (225 grams)  pkg. cream cheese
  1/2 cup sugar
  2 eggs
  1 tablespoon vanilla 
  Zest of one lemon (optional)


1. Preheat the oven to 350. Mix the crust ingredients together, shmushing the crumbs and sugar into the butter. Press the mixture into the bottom of a 8 inch round pan.

2. Beat the filling ingredients until smooth. (Can be done by electric mixer or by hand). Pour over the crust.

3. Bake for 40-60* minutes until the top has browned and feels like it has set. 


* The original recipe calls for a baking time of 40 minutes. In all the years I have made this cake, I have never had it take less than 50-60 minutes.



Sunday, May 13, 2012

Simple Things


This is a truth I have come to learn about myself: sometimes I freak out. Sometimes I freak out and that freakout is entirely unwarranted. Take, for example, last weekend. Last weekend I hosted lunch, as I am occasionally wont to do. No reason for a freakout, right? Well. To begin with I was out of mine comfort zone- my comfort zone being animal protein, carbohydrate, salad, salad, salad- as I was feeding a pescatarian and a non-fish eater, which meant that the meal would be straight up vegetarian. Now, mind you until about 5 years ago the kitchen in my home was entirely vegetarian kitchen for one reason or another (for the most part, vegetarian roommates) so this shouldn't have thrown me. And it didn't throw me really, it just made me think more about how the sum of the meal's parts was going to coalesce into a whole. What threw me was the guest list. I had invited some good friends, but I had also invited some more acquaintance type people- people who I had met a time or two and a little voice inside my head said, "I think I like you. Let's be friends." This meal was my way of saying that aloud. So I was nervous. I mean, what if nobody got along? What if there were these long awkward silences that I would (awkwardly) have to fill? What if the conversation turned to politics (shudder)? What if I bake a cake and don't taste it before I serve it because after all it is a cake, and then after having served it to all my guests I take a bite and realize it is inedibly salty (cuz that's never happened. Oh wait, it has) and then I will want to do nothing but crawl under the table and die of embarrassment? Adding to my worries was the fact that one of those very lovely acquaintances is a fellow feeder of people and I was feeling just a little bit like I really needed to bring my A game.
Unfortunately my first attempts at bringing my A game failed miserably. The first dessert I made was inedible (I made this. Don't know what went wrong, but something did. Horribly so. At least I tasted before I served). Then, I dumped my pastry crust into the sink and didn't have enough butter, or time, to make another. And all through this I heard a nagging voice in my head saying, you don't have enough food. That voice stayed with me all through Friday afternoon and dinner and into Saturday until the moment we all sat down at the table.
But here are a few things I should have known 1) There is always enough food 2) Many of my dishes came from my beloved Ottolenghi cookbook and one need never fear with Ottolenghi at their side 3) Wine. Wine. And more wine 4) Sometimes it's the simple things. It was a lovely meal with lovely food and lovely people who lingered and talked well into the afternoon. At some point, woozy and happy with wine, I looked at my guests all chatting and eating and I thought to myself, this? This is what you were freaking out about? You are a crazy person. What could be simpler or more self-evident than this? You sit down. You eat. You drink. You talk. Acquaintances become friends. Friends become closer. It's the most natural thing in the world.


All the dishes I served at the meal were good. Especially the Ottolenghi ones. But I have to say that the only one that was entirely finished by the end of the meal came from no cookbook and involved all of 5 ingredients (counting salt and pepper). A few weeks ago I walked into my house and was hit with the musty smell of a ripe melon. The melon sitting in my fruit bowl was at that stage where it was ripe to the point where it was about to get sweetly putrid. It needed to eaten. I looked at the melon and then at the bright red tomatoes, also begging to be eaten, sitting on my counter and this salad was born. It is nothing but melon, tomatoes, olive oil, salt, pepper and some fresh basil. Nothing more, nothing less. And it is wonderful. The tomatoes are warm and savory, but the melon is cool and sweet and the fruity acid tinge of the olive oil ties it all together. It is a bowl of summer- all  juicy and sticky running down your arms. It will talk you down from a freakout. It will say, hey girl, slow down. What's there to get all excited about? Life' s a summer day; a book at the beach; a circle of friends.

Tomato-Melon Salad

The tomatoes and melons used for this salad need to be in season and they need to be really ripe for this dish to work. (Which might mean that folks in the U.S. won't be able to make this dish for another few months). I used the ubiquitous Israeli green melon which I guess is sort of a cross between a cantaloupe and a honeydew. Either type of melon could work.

1 small-medium melon
4-5 ripe vine-grown tomatoes
5-6 basil leaves, chiffonaded
good, fruity olive oil
salt
pepper

Chop the melon and tomatoes into bite size chunks. Drizzle with a good amount of olive and sprinkle with salt and grind of pepper. Let sit for a few minutes so that the flavors meld a bit. Mix in the basil. Serve.